I understand that the Italian economy is doing fine already, but I can't help but wonder: would it do better if they charged money for things? I'm sitting right now in the lovely Bar Fiorentina, where I have just ordered an espresso with a dollop of milk for .85 Euros. In Paris this same would cost $3.50 E and a pound of flesh from nearest the heart.
The same is true of Italian clothing stores. In Paris, I could not find even a thrift store where I could bring myself to exchange money for fabric. Parisian thrift store racks are organized by designer (really). For two weeks I searched Paris for a t-shirt that I could wear on our upcoming bike trip. I could not find one for less than 30 Euros ($45), on sale. (Note my sunburned shoulders.)
In Trento, on the other hand, where we are stationed for two weeks, clothes are free. This is in
part because they are all fabricated out of pixie tears and unicorn secrets. Italy is the first country that I am aware of to speculate into the unicorn-secret-based textile industry, and while I think there is real potential in it (D, as a control group, seems to respond favorably to clothes made of lycra-bonded starlight as modeled by the lazy ranks of tawny, long-legged, black-haired, sweat-misted, bouncing Italian co-eds), I can't help but think that it would be more successful if they charged money.
Here are some other observations I have drawn, in the last four days, about Italians:
- Italians don't know what breakfast is. Ask an Italian for breakfast, and s/he will give you coffee and a gelato.
- Italians eat gelato three meals a day.
- Italian old men look and move exactly like you think they do, even if you have only ever seen cartoons. Also, they really do that thing where they turn their palm up, touch all four fingers to their thumb, and brandish it while arguing.
- Italian buildings do have insides, but no one uses them. The entire population of Italy is visible 24 hours a day at sidewalk tables, stoops and balconies. You could pour concrete into the insides of all Italian cafes and restaurants tomorrow and no Italians would notice.
- It is physically impossible to overexaggerate an Italian accent. I will teach you. Put a smoky, slightly wanton tone in your voice, and then say: "BOinGY, BOinGY, BOinGY?!" You are speaking perfect Italian. That is how you say: "I would like to order a free espresso and a gelato."
Also, the heat-induced laziness is contagious. I wake up in the morning, stretch, knock back another
two stories from Gaiman's Fragile Things (highly recommended), go to a café, write on my book for four hours, wander off to: gape at the painted murals on the outsides of all the buildings, buy a tablespoon of flattering Italian clothing, wander ruins/castles, hike in the vineyard-raked mountain villages (left) , or take photographs of unsuspecting Italians ("I know it's wrong! But every single Scottish person does it!").
Once I peeked through a gate and saw a young Italian woman in white scrubs repainting the frescoes on the cathedral reliquary floor. Once I stepped out of our apartment here and found a 1920s movie being filmed right there, with a huge film crew of Italian cameramen all squinting and holding their hands out like goal-posts in random directions. Wandering between them, like the half-tame American Zoo Peacocks of yesteryear, were half a dozen tweed-wearing actors and red-lipsticked actresses with shellacked hair, chatting with their heads inclined together. ![]()
Sooner or later, I have enough of this tableau and I go write some more. D eventually comes home, all hyperactive with new info-vis ideas, and we wander around imitating the locals' nightly game of café-roulette. Sometime nights there are thunderstorms and heat lightning.
I feel like I could spend the rest of my life here. I've loved this whole trip-- I've seen so much in these last four weeks, I can barely sort it all in my head-- but I love Italy. There are no cars allowed in the middle of most Italian cities, so there is this central core to them where rushing is all but impossible. These centers are characterized by
cobblestones and the old, broken-down ramparts symbolizing how long it has been since these people really worried about anything. (Zoom in to this pic on the left-- these broken-down stairs just kill me.) In this favorite café of mine, I have an electrical outlet stationed right by the door, and while I write, I get to stare out at the hoopy, oversized bicycles swooshing by and the inevitable patio-side café arguments. I want to learn Italian. I want to come back here.
This weekend, we are going to bike out to the modern museum and the huge castle ruins in the nearby town. Last weekend, I went to the Geiger café & nearby castle in Switzerland. You won't believe the pictures.
Till next time, Gadget.

